How to choose a scarf for a suit and how to fold it correctly

In this article:

Is a pocket square necessary for a suit?
Materials and sizes of men's pocket squares
Pattern and color of the pocket square
12 key rules for choosing and wearing a scarf with a suit
Options for folding a pocket square

Good taste is expressed not only in the ability to choose beautiful and stylish things, but also in the ability to make the right accent with the help of suitable accessories. Such a detail could be a pocket square, which is sometimes called a pache. It will be that spectacular accent in an ordinary office suit. But how to choose a scarf for a suit so that everything is harmonious?

A pocket square can really add variety to your wardrobe. Match your suit with a few shirts and matching scarves, and your everyday looks are ready. We will talk about the rules for choosing and wearing this finishing touch to your bow in this article.

Is a pocket square necessary for a suit?

Pasha - a handkerchief that is inserted into the breast pocket of a jacket, appeared thanks to snuff, or more precisely, the need to blow the nose for those who like to sniff tobacco. Although ordinary people used a sleeve or hem for these purposes for a long time, the courtiers of King Richard picked up from their monarch the manner of using a separate piece of fabric for these purposes.

In September 1784, King Louis XVI of France issued a decree stating that “the length of the scarf must be equal to its width.” He did this for his wife Marie Antoinette, who, being a style icon of that time, once noticed that a square scarf was much more comfortable than others.

Initially, since wearing a scarf was the prerogative of the nobility, this accessory was made of silk and richly decorated with lace, and therefore was very expensive. Therefore, in order to protect him from damage by metal money and prolong his life, they began to sew a special pocket on his chest to the vest. And when two-piece suits came into use at the beginning of the twentieth century, the scarf pocket “moved” onto the jacket. Gradually, scarves were divided according to their functionality into a pasha (a decorative accessory for a breast pocket) and a regular handkerchief, which remained “to live” in a trouser pocket.

Michael Anton, a well-known trendsetter in men's fashion, writes: “A man who is missing a headscarf is not only not on show, he cannot even be called well-dressed.”

Alan Flusser, in his book Dressing the Man, Fr.

Down with stereotypes!

And even if the time has come when, among the sea of men in familiar everyday clothes, there is that drop of dandies who can see this beauty on their jackets, then surely it will be some kind of celebration, or even a wedding.

But a modern man should deviate from stereotypes and show up for a romantic date with his beloved or to a banquet in a luxurious restaurant with a boutonniere in his buttonhole. Without a doubt, those around them will appreciate this move, but women who could resist fresh flowers worn in their honor simply do not exist in nature.

Yes, yes, live ones, because a boutonniere made of artificial flowers is bad form.

Materials and sizes of men's pocket squares

Most often, pasha scarves are sewn from silk, linen and cotton or mixed fabrics in different combinations and proportions. During the colder months, wool or wool mixed with cotton or silk is a good choice, especially when paired with a tweed suit. In summer, it is preferable to wear scarves made of linen and silk; moreover, they go better with light suits. There is no need to get hung up on the combination of a scarf and a tie; both contrasting options and those made from the same material will look equally good. If you find it difficult to decide on a color, choose an accessory made of light linen; it will look organic in any situation.

You definitely shouldn’t choose synthetic material; scarves made from such fabrics look unpresentable and wear out quickly. Although if the suit for which you are choosing an accessory is also inexpensive, then perhaps you should opt for, for example, artificial silk, so that there is no dissonance. The combination of a cheap suit with an expensive scarf will most likely look ridiculous.

So how do you choose a scarf for your suit? How not to make a mistake in choosing fabric, color, texture?

There are many options, let's try to figure it out. Let's first consider natural fabrics.

The most common is silk.

Scarves made of natural silk are suitable for almost any suit and season; they have many advantages: they do not wrinkle, hardly wear out and look respectable. The only thing is that you should not combine them with similar ties. The silk scarf is soft, does not hold its shape very well, and folding it requires some skill.

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A mixture of linen and silk is more of a summer material, but can also be worn in spring or early autumn.

This blend fabric is not as versatile as silk. The fabric tends to wrinkle, although not much, but at the same time it is perfect for summer suits. Like a white silk scarf, a white linen pache will pair with almost any fabric. For variety, you can choose not just a white plain scarf, but an accessory with a not very bright and sharp pattern or ornament.

A mixture of wool and linen and pure wool are options for the cold season.

Such scarves can be combined with tweed suits and items made of good wool. Silk scarves with added wool also go perfectly with winter suits. If you choose the right accessory according to the color scheme, you will get a very stylish and elegant look.

Cotton is the most inexpensive natural fabric option.

Don't forget about cotton fabrics; they are very practical fabrics. One of the undoubted advantages is the ability to wash such scarves, and cotton scarves can be starched, which will make them tougher and increase the number of folding options.

Often, in pursuit of savings, manufacturers produce scarves that are too small. After all, the smaller the scarf, the lower the consumption of materials and the lower the cost. And although some suit manufacturers still make small scarf pockets, the most common option is a medium-sized scarf pocket.

It is difficult to say exactly which size is correct. In addition to the fact that breast pockets differ for different models of jackets and vests, different sizes are also suitable for scarves made of different materials. Also, the option of putting the scarf in your pocket affects the choice of its size.

In general, the size recommendation for silk scarves is 33x33 cm. A smaller silk scarf will most likely simply fall into your pocket. If you choose a cotton accessory of the wrong size, it will fold poorly and not keep its shape. And if the woolen scarf is larger than necessary, it will wrinkle and bulge out in the pocket, which also looks rather ugly.

Wearing a boutonniere correctly is an art

Typically, the left lapel of the jacket has a small buttonhole usually used to attach a badge - this is where the boutonniere should be placed. The owners of jackets without a buttonhole adapt and wear the accessory simply, fixing it on the left side of the jacket lapel. The boutonniere must be firmly secured so that it holds securely and you also need to hide its stem. To do this, you just need to insert it into the buttonhole or, if there is none, decorate it with ribbon.

Pattern and color of the pocket square

High-quality models of scarves are tucked and hemmed manually, these are the so-called hand-rolled. They are somewhat more expensive than scarves hemmed with sewing machines, and they look neater. Since there is an opinion that they will not tinker with cheap synthetic material by hand, the “hand-rolled” sign is a kind of guarantee of quality.

Although now you can already find scarves hemmed on special machines that imitate handwork. Of course, upon closer inspection you can notice the difference, but in general, if the stitching thread is carefully selected, such scarves look like the result of manual labor.

You can find scarves with unusual edge processing, as if they were openwork, with a lot of small holes; most often, linen accessories are treated this way. Did you know that sophisticated fashionistas can distinguish a scarf made from Irish linen from a scarf made from French linen?

The variety of colors, ornaments and patterns, fabrics and textures allows you to create a lot of combinations with ties and jackets.

Of course, if you are lost in the variety of colors and fabrics or want something universal, then a white linen or white silk scarf will always help you out.

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This is a versatile choice that goes with any suit or tie. You can also choose a plain blue or light blue scarf, but you must remember that you cannot wear them with a blue and light blue jacket, respectively.

To highlight the scarf, you can choose a patterned one. A simple stripe along the edge of a scarf can liven up any formal suit.

Which boutonniere to choose depends on the occasion

When choosing a boutonniere, you need to take care of its size. She should not get lost among the muscles pumped up by hard training on her manly chest or, on the contrary, become a tacky spot, but fit organically into the groom’s carefully selected outfit.

To do this, you need to choose a boutonniere that is commensurate with the lapel of your jacket. With the variety that reigns in florist shops, it is difficult to make a decision in favor of a particular boutonniere, especially if you are a beginner wearing it. Therefore, the first factors influencing the choice should be the general style of the suit and its color.

In order not to make a mistake, to hit the target and hit any lady, you need to “hit to kill”, choosing a win-win option - a luxurious white rose or calla lily flower.

An alternative to a white monoboutonniere is a lavender sprig, which will not only decorate a light suit, but also complement it with a subtle natural aroma.

Classics never go out of fashion, which means that in a black suit with a purple rose in the buttonhole of the jacket, a man will amaze those around him.

A tie and boutonniere, chosen in the same color, will be a stylish combination.

Of course, a man with a boutonniere will attract attention always and everywhere, but this does not mean that it should become part of his everyday wardrobe. It is better to become the center of attention by wearing it where it will become an appropriate addition and emphasize the individuality of its owner.

Options for folding a pocket square

There are about a hundred ways to tie a tie, but with a scarf the situation is much simpler. There are much fewer options for folding scarves, and most often two or three options are used.

“Presidential method” - before putting the scarf in the pocket of a jacket or vest, you need to fold the scarf in half into a rectangle, and then tuck its lower corner, leaving a little space at the top.
“With one corner” - spread the scarf in front of you, turn the corner towards you, fold it in half to form a triangle, then fold the left edge of the accessory, slightly overhanging the center, and repeat this action with the right edge. You can put the scarf in your pocket.
“Two corners on top” - place the scarf as in the previous method, then throw the lower half of the scarf over the top, but not symmetrically, but so that you get two corners, and fold, by analogy with the “one corner” method, first the left and then the right edge . The scarf is ready.
“Three corners from above” - lay the scarf in front of you with the angle down. Asymmetrically place the bottom half of the scarf over the top so that you get two corners. Next, pull the left corner up, also asymmetrically, to make three corners. Place the handkerchief in your pocket, being careful not to disturb the design.

If a linen or cotton scarf is too soft and does not want to keep its shape, you should starch it before ironing, this will help you easily fold it as you wish. But remember: silk scarves do not starch.

If the pocket of your jacket or vest is too large for the selected scarf, place a folded napkin or piece of fabric at the bottom of the pocket; they will prevent the scarf from slipping inside. However, be careful that the scarf does not stick out, protruding your pocket; this will look very sloppy.

Flowers in the buttonhole of a jacket - guests from France

Boutonniere – the name of this not yet the most common accessory seems to speak for itself. Translated from romantic French, Boutonni`re means one or more buds, flowers in the buttonhole of a man's jacket. So, no matter how much many fashionistas who adopt all the best from men would like to take possession of this delicate bouquet to decorate their outfit, unfortunately for them, but fortunately for the stronger sex, this attribute is exclusively for men and not only for the groom.

Method No. 5 – “Donut” or informal method

This method of folding a pocket square is sometimes called the “Pumpkin” fold. It's perfect for a more casual outfit (if you want or). In my opinion it works best on a patterned scarf or as a square design. Suitable for a checkered shirt or a shirt with polka dots, with patterns (we also call such shirts “with cucumbers”). Folding a scarf this way is unlikely to go well with formal wear or a formal suit.

Method No. 5 “Donut”

Instructions:

Place the pocket square on a flat surface.
Now “pinch” the pocket square in the center and pull it up.
Pull out the scarf as shown in picture No. 3.
Next, turn the scarf upside down.
Finally, place the pocket square in your pocket and fold up the loose ends. It will look quite uneven, but that's how it should be.

How to fold creatively?

Straight and diagonal folds are a very unusual approach to the issue of designing a pocket square. The part protruding above the pocket looks like several cubes . To fold, you will need to do the following:

fold in four;
place it in front of you like a square or diamond;
make a narrow fold, slightly turning the bottom up;
make another 3-5 folds;
fold the handkerchief in half.

Ready. Place the decorated pache with the fold facing outwards.

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