Imagine the situation: winter is coming, and you in a hurry take out a down jacket and see that your previously favorite jacket fits you baggy or is so big that walking in it is uncomfortable and ugly. You can buy a new jacket or take it to a studio, where craftsmen will quickly and efficiently sew your item. However, all this costs a lot of money. Don't worry, there is a third option. It is quite possible to sew a down jacket at home, but you need to act carefully, following all the instructions. Then the thing will warm and delight you again.
Is it possible to shorten the sleeves of a down jacket?
Many people can shorten the sleeves of a down jacket, but you should always pay attention to the quality of the work. Many people can shorten the sleeves of a down jacket, but you should always pay attention to the quality of the work.
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What will you need for this?
In order to sew a down jacket yourself, you need the following tools and materials:
- sewing machine;
- threads in color;
- scissors;
- steamer or nail scissors;
- ruler or measuring tape for sewing;
- chalk or dry piece of soap;
- tracing paper;
- interlining;
- iron.
When choosing a sewing machine needle and thread, be careful! It is best to choose sharp, thin needles from No. 60 to No. 100. It is recommended to sew at low speed, because the layer of fabric and filler is quite thick. As for threads, choose reinforced ones. They are particularly durable because they have a twisted weave and contain various fibers.
How to replace a zipper on a jacket
My clients inspired me to write this master class. Among ourselves, we call them “folk craftsmen.” Most often, these are women who want to save their family budget, remembering an old sewing machine. As a result of such home-grown repairs, the item is often hopelessly damaged. But I respect the ladies' desire to return to the mainstream of home economics. That’s why I want to describe the most necessary work, such as shortening skirts and trousers, replacing zippers, and sewing curtain tape. So today I had a jacket at work with a broken zipper. It is this work that I filmed and I want to describe it.
First, carefully remove the zipper from the jacket.
To do this, use a paper ripper or a paper cutter. From my point of view, a steamer is more convenient, although it slows down the work somewhat. But the threat of cutting the fabric practically disappears. But you will still have to use a knife in the places where the fastenings are made. Be careful not to cut the fabric.
When the lightning wears off, this “shaggy” edge will remain. It needs to be cleared of threads. Next we will prepare a new zipper.
We take the new and old zippers and put them together. We cut the new zipper exactly according to the size of the old one.
Make notes on the new zipper using soap or tailor's chalk. One is the end of the zipper, the second is the end of the plastic or metal track on the old zipper
As a result, the edge of the zipper will look like this. Now the extra links will have to be removed. This can be done using pliers.
It is worth noting that the extra links are removed only if the zipper is plastic or metal. On a spiral zipper, the links cannot be removed. You just have to drive them under the fabric, after flattening them as much as possible with a hammer.
The end of the track must be secured with metal fasteners. They are usually removed from old zippers. Clothes repairers specifically collect them for these purposes, since they are not sold separately.
When the zipper is ready, pin it to the inner edge of the jacket, aligning the lower edge with the bottom of the product or with the bottom notch, and the top edge, aligning it with the top of the product or with the top notch. A notch is a small cut in the fabric that serves as a guide for certain operations. You can see how it looks by carefully examining the edge of the product. Next, we sew the pinned zipper on the machine, trying to place the seam exactly like the old one. This is necessary because holes from the needle often remain on jacket fabrics, and they can only be closed with a new stitch. Depending on the width of the zipper and the proximity of the stitch to its edge, you need to choose a foot: wide, narrow or one-sided.
We do the same with the other side of the product. Next we sew on the top part of the strip. Place it over the zipper and pin it together. Next we attach it, trying to fit exactly into the old seam.
Having attached one side of the zipper, we perform the following work. We fasten the zipper and on the unsewn side, use tailor's chalk or soap to mark all the joining parts.
Now you need to align the joining parts on the other side of the product with the marks. They will have to be pinned together, or better yet, swept away. Then stitch on the machine. After the stitching is completed, the basting must be carefully pulled out. A steamer is best suited for this purpose. The sewn product must be checked to see if everything fits together: the bottom of the product, the stitching on the parts, the top of the product.
The indentations, if any, should be the same on all sides. If they do not match somewhere, the operation will have to be repeated. If everything matches everywhere, all that remains is to do the finishing stitches, and the product is ready.
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Stages of work
Once you have decided how many centimeters you need to sew on your down jacket, you can begin to work directly.
Sew on the sides
- Turn the jacket inside out. Using a sharp object (small scissors or a special seam ripper), open the side seams and carefully remove the old threads. Some modern products are factory-treated with adhesive tape. If this is present, then it is necessary to peel off the hem allowance and, if possible, remove the sticky layer from it. Fabric soaked in glue will be more difficult to stitch.
- Afterwards you will need tracing paper or other thin paper. Some housewives use thicker paper, for example, wallpaper, but for inexperienced seamstresses we recommend tracing paper, on which you can easily stitch . Place it on the side seam and draw a taper line along it, then mark half the distance from the taper line to the edge. Connect the marks. Do not skip this step so that in the future there are no gathers and constrictions on the front side of the product. Now use your sewing machine to make one stitch along the drawn line directly on top of the tracing paper, then remove the paper.
- The next step is to remove the factory threads using scissors using upward movements. The allowance must be cut at a distance of 1 cm from your stitching. If the seam was taped at the factory, then repeat this action using non-woven fabric and an iron. Apply the hot iron for a couple of seconds and remove the hot iron: the material sticks very quickly.
- At the end, open the seam on the lining fabric, sew it along the side seams according to the size of the front fabric. After this, you can connect the lining to the outer material. Next, you just need to sew the cut and turn the down jacket inside out. All that remains is to try it on!
Shortened into a jacket
If you think that the down jacket is too long and you decide to cut it yourself, then follow the instructions:
- open the bottom seam of the product and remove the factory threads;
- open the lining material by 15–20 cm;
- Carefully cut the length you need with scissors. If feathers or fluff get on the cutting line, it is better to carefully remove them so that they do not come out when sewing ;
- form a hem from the outer fabric, turning the top 0.5 cm of the fabric inward, and sew an even seam;
- trim off the excess lining and sew to the inside of the down jacket.
How to sew a sleeve with your own hands?
If you are not satisfied with the length of the sleeves on your down jacket, then shortening them will not be difficult. Here you need to follow the same pattern as when cutting the bottom. By the way, now the current sleeve length is just below the elbow. If you wear this jacket with long gloves, you get a stylish and fresh look. If you are not satisfied with the fit, armhole or width of the sleeve, then it will be much more difficult to recut and sew it yourself. This is possible if you have sewing experience. If you decide to do this, then pay attention to the following tips:
- do not rip off the sleeve immediately. Try using a coat hanger. If the result does not satisfy you, carefully open the side seam of the product, open the sleeve;
- find a pattern (you can find a diagram on the Internet or use a sleeve from an old jacket that suits you), attach it and trace it with chalk along the contour. Draw a new armhole line, first adjusting the side seam line;
- if necessary, decide on the sleeve width
- sew the side seam of the down jacket (see above for how to do this), then sew the side seam on the lining and the sleeve itself;
- fit the sleeve correctly. Using chalk and pins, carefully mark fit reference marks on the sleeve and jacket itself, pin the pieces together and begin basting. It is important to ensure that the head of the sleeve does not begin to wrinkle ;
- turn the sleeve inside out, straighten the lining, carefully sew the rest of the seam;
- Turn the sleeve right side out.
Do not try to re-cut a sleeve without a pattern. Even professional seamstresses always use it so that the sleeve does not twist or wrinkle when worn.
Sewing a down jacket is quite possible if you have at least minimal sewing skills. The main thing is to take your time: once you cut off the excess, you won’t be able to put it back. The quality of your work determines whether you will wear this item in the future.
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