Installation of wall cabinets in the kitchen: choosing a mounting method and following installation technology

How to hang kitchen cabinets on the wall is a question that worries those who do the renovation themselves. In fact, installing kitchen furniture is a simple task that even an inexperienced craftsman can handle if he has the necessary tools.

However, this applies only to the simplest fasteners (corners, furniture hinges). Currently, many other types of furniture fittings have appeared, which we will consider in more detail.

It should be remembered that improper installation can lead to wall cabinets falling, and this, in turn, poses a danger to the health of household members and the safety of the repair. Therefore, we recommend that you act without haste and follow the instructions so that everything works out.

How to Hang Kitchen Cabinets on the Wall

Mounting methods

Using dowels is the easiest way to install cabinets on structures made of different materials. In earlier times, corners were used for this purpose. Today this method has lost its relevance. It was replaced by a mounting rail. If the question of how to hang a kitchen cabinet on the wall is being decided, a specific device called a wall mount is also considered.

Mounting rail

The use of such fasteners increases the reliability of the structure. Cabinets are hung on a horizontally oriented strip, which is called a mounting rail. It has several holes. The main task is to mount this element on the wall. All that remains is to secure the cabinets with screws. The advantage of this solution is that there is no need to regularly use a building level to control the position of furniture.

The use of self-tapping screws for point installation of individual cabinets does not provide a long service life. If you fix the furniture using a mounting rail, you can not only quickly mount the set, but also get a structure that will be used for a long period. However, to ensure that the cabinets are level, you will need to carefully check the position of the mounting rail.

Loops

This type of fastener allows you to adjust the position of furniture in the horizontal plane. Installation instructions:

1. A cabinet is placed between the previously drawn marking lines. It is held to mark points for installing the dowel.
2. A hole is drilled in accordance with the markings.
3. Then you need to take the cabinet again and hold it in its original position (between the lines on the wall). The point of the second fastening element is marked. You should first check whether the product is level.
4. Install hangers for kitchen cabinets. After this, you can fix the product on the wall.

Hanging on a plasterboard wall

If you try to fix a fairly heavy structure on an unreliable partition, the furniture may collapse after a while. To avoid this, when it is necessary to hang cabinets on a plasterboard wall, the only option considered is mounting on a strip, which is an element of the partition structure. In this case, the weight of the upper part of the headset is transferred to the most reliable area, made of metal. Fixing pieces of furniture is carried out using special dowels.

If you are deciding how to properly hang kitchen cabinets, you should follow the instructions:

• A magnet is used to search for fastening elements in a sheet of drywall.
• Correlate the distance between the nearest screws inside the partition structure and the size that determines the location of the hinges on the cabinets. If necessary, use an intermediate strip for fastening. This method will allow you to redistribute the load across the entire partition.
• Heavy furniture is fixed to the gypsum board wall using anchors and long screws. The partition is drilled through to get to the supporting structure.

Installing the upper part of the furniture: tips from the experts

It is difficult to carry out installation correctly, especially if you have never done such work.

Some professional advice will help you do everything correctly:

1. Before hanging the upper kitchen cabinets, determine how to install them: overlapping the kitchen splashback or flush against it. The layout and general appearance of the structure will depend on this.
2. When using a bar, secure the hooks on it in the middle position using the adjusting screws. Then secure them from the inside to the sides.
3. When applying the top marking line, keep in mind that the mounting rail should be located 30-40 mm below the top edge of the rear wall of the cabinet.
4. To correctly make mounting holes for the slats in a concrete wall without a hammer drill, use a punch and a hammer.
5. When drilling into walls, if the drill bit jumps, make small holes with a punch, then continue drilling.
6. If the plaster is crumbling, drill a small hole first and then drill it out to the desired size.

Useful drilling tools

Many home craftsmen have encountered the problem of the drill moving from the intended point due to the heterogeneity of the walls. This leads to the fact that the exact horizontal line is lost and it is not possible to hang a shelf or other piece of kitchen furniture straight.

In such a situation, craftsmen recommend that you independently prepare a sheet of plywood with a hole (a jig) through which the drilling will be carried out. To prevent it from moving when applied to the wall while the drill is operating, double-sided tape or sandpaper is glued to the surface oriented to the plane being drilled. For versatility, you can make several holes of different diameters. If you provide one edge with a plate attached at a right angle, then the dust will not fly away, but almost all of it will settle on this shelf.

To secure cabinets, it is often necessary to prepare holes with a specific distance. Here the conductor will also come to the rescue, on which precise markings are made, and two holes are prepared. Further actions will be aimed at drilling the first socket for the dowel in the wall, in which one side of the conductor is attached with a self-tapping screw. All that remains is to level it using a building level and drill a second hole.

Method 3. Plastic and metal wrap-around dowels

This is the fastest option for hanging a cabinet from a plasterboard wall. The downside is a significant limitation on the maximum load. The video below demonstrates what load different types of dowels can withstand:

For fastening, special roll-up dowels for DRIVA plasterboards are used. They come in metal and plastic, with or without a drilling tip, and have large external threads and a cross slot for screwing into drywall with a screwdriver. In contrast to previous methods, these fasteners should not get into the metal frame profiles.

DRIVA is simply screwed into the plasterboard sheet in the right place, its end is flush with the plane of the wall. The force when screwing should be controlled so that the dowel does not “fall” through the gypsum board. To fasten hanging furniture, self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are screwed into DRIVA.

The declared maximum load on DRIVA fasteners is 25 kg. At the same time, we should not forget about the additional dynamic loads that arise during operation. Craftsmen recommend using DRIVA for attaching small cabinets, shelves, plasma panels and paintings to drywall.

Another innovative solution is the use of the Fischer DuoTec self-aligning dowel. The principle of its operation and installation technique can be seen in the video:

Other types of fasteners

To hang several rather heavy cabinets on self-tapping screws already screwed into the wall, you can attach a strip to their back surface. This flat piece has a slot that resembles a keyhole in configuration. It is selected so that the diameter of the widest part of the hole is slightly larger than the head of the screw. The narrow part of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the thread. When hanging the cabinet, the head of the self-tapping screw enters the wide part of the slot, and then moves under weight into the narrow zone, ensuring reliable fastening.

If you need to fix a fairly heavy object on the wall, made with plasterboard sheathing, then you can first make a hole with a diameter of ≈ 3 cm in the area of ​​the fastening room, through which a solution can be introduced into the empty space, allowing you to create a strong bridge to the wall.

You can simplify the process if you correctly calculate the length of the screw. In order for the kitchen wall cabinet to be firmly fixed, several values ​​are added up: the thickness of the drywall, the gap from the finish to the wall, the layer of plaster, the depth of the hole in the wall itself.

Rules for wall preparation

Before installation, the working surfaces (rough) are put in order. The most important points:

1. The walls are checked for distortions. In this case, you should use a level or a long-length building level.
2. Assess the condition of corner areas. The walls here should make an angle of 90°C.
3. Installation of sockets, chiselling of rough surfaces - these actions are completed before the process of attaching kitchen cabinets to the wall begins. The same should be the approach to the distribution of water supply communications and sewerage.
4. Finishing work is in progress. Cabinets in the kitchen are installed after finishing the wall cladding, otherwise the joints between the pieces of furniture and the finishing material will be visible.

If the walls are wavy, it is recommended to remove the old layer of plaster down to the brick/concrete. Then the partition is finished from scratch. If cabinets are hung on wavy surfaces without eliminating the defects, the furniture will be positioned unevenly. This will negatively affect the interior.

Method number 1: on a wooden beam

In cases where you install plasterboard partitions yourself, you can mark out your future kitchen in advance and lay a wooden beam at the location of the mounting rail before finishing work. Choose a beam of medium width, about 8-10 centimeters, so that later you can slightly adjust the height of the cabinets. The timber is laid in the spaces between the vertical guide profile to a width equal to the width of the kitchen unit, and is attached to the main wall of the room. Subsequently, choose the fasteners for your cabinet so that its length is enough to sew through the plasterboard sheet and secure it in a wooden block. This method is usually chosen in cases where main walls are leveled with sheets of plasterboard.

Useful drilling tools

A jack of all trades always needs certain tools to work in a private house, on a summer cottage, in an apartment, or when building his own house. Many of them are not even worth purchasing if they do not require constant use. For example, for drilling, there are many different attachments that will greatly increase the functions of your drill and significantly expand them.

Let's look at some devices for auxiliary potential.

To obtain precise holes of significant diameter in different workpieces, a device such as a drilling and milling attachment will help to carry out individual milling work.

Make a milling machine out of a drill.

The next device worth mentioning is very expensive, but has the highest versatility. You will sharpen all the tools that you have on the farm, be it knives, shovels, axes, hoes, various drills, effortlessly with the universal sharpening device.

When purchasing drill attachments, be sure to check their compatibility.

Holder with clamp. With its help, you can fix the drill anywhere, use it with various kinds of devices, use it as a mini-lathe, sharpening, milling or grinding and polishing machine.

The drill holder allows you to quickly secure the drill.

All kinds of attachments are also designed for drills. These can be stops that limit the depth of drilling, platforms with which you can drill at a certain angle or perpendicularly. There are nozzles that are adapters and extensions of different designs: offset, angled, flexible.

The angle drill adapter is designed for hand and electric drills.

Metal cutting attachments turn your drill into a one-of-a-kind tool. Some resemble sheet metal shears, while others have a different feature, such as roller shears. The nozzle, called the “Cricket,” seems to cut through the metal.

The main advantage is that they do not damage the polymer coating of the metal.

There are also other attachments designed for monotype work.

• For installing aluminum rivets. There are types for both the same size and those with interchangeable bushings for different calibers.
• Tape-shaped attachment for self-tapping screws. With its help, you will significantly save time when working with plasterboard partitions or when you need to secure other materials with self-tapping screws.
• A belt sanding attachment will completely replace a sanding machine, and it will be much cheaper in cost.
• An attachment with which you can turn your drill into a hammer drill will not be superfluous.
• Using the corner pruner attachment, you can cut various cables, as well as tree branches.
• Using a variety of attachments, the drill will replace your jigsaw, circular saw, pump, and you can polish surfaces and sharpen drills.
• There are unusual attachments.

Whatever attachments we use, the main thing is that the work is enjoyable.

Mounting options

There are 2 methods by which fastenings for kitchen cabinets are made. Installation is carried out:

1. One line, that is, the location of the fastener is equidistant from the ceiling;

It is considered the most common type of accommodation. This way you can easily secure the cabinets yourself.

This method is used much less frequently, since its implementation is much more complicated than a linear fastening scheme.

The first method is popular because you can use only your own strength to attach kitchen cabinets, without turning to outside help.

The choice of option is determined by the number, size and depth of wall cabinets.

The second option for attaching fixation items is less common among ordinary people. This is because the roof of this furniture is used as an additional surface.

Any of the proposed variations is perfect for both a room with a small area and a large one.

And all because they do not have any effect on the fullness or compactness of the room.

When choosing a method, only the interior and design change.

The position of the suspended modules of the kitchen unit - we determine the height

Before installing the kitchen unit on the wall, markings should be made, taking into account all the features of the upper base. The fact is that all models differ slightly in size, and in some cases the difference in size can be quite significant. This refers to both the total height of the cabinets, which is usually observed for all wall sections of the block, and the spans between the shelves, as well as their depth. Moreover, the last 2 values ​​have the greatest impact on the usability of the upper base. Let's look at a few examples.

The most effective solution for kitchen furniture is sections of 3 shelves no more than 30 centimeters deep. Moreover, the height of each span should be such that the middle level can be reached without resorting to aids in the form of a chair or, especially, a stepladder. As for the upper shelves, they can also be made in a direct access area or left at a height exceeding the height of a person with an outstretched arm, reserved for rarely used utensils. In this case, the lower plane of the cabinet should not interfere with tilting over the work surface intended for cooking, at a standard tabletop height.

Before you begin installing kitchen cabinets, you need to mark

Of course, in order to increase the capacity of the hanging sections, you can make them as deep as possible, up to half a meter, by providing each with 4 shelves, divided into compartments. However, an increase in internal space will be achieved by limiting access to it. The fact is that hanging kitchen cabinets below eye level is not the best option, as this will reduce the usability of the work area. Especially if the “apron” of the kitchen wall is used for hanging utensils and dishes. And to hang it high means to make the top 2 shelves out of reach at once.

Thus, based on GOST, the minimum height of the lower plane of the cabinet above the countertop is considered to be 45 centimeters, while the depth should be less than 30 centimeters. This will allow you to conveniently use the cutting area and at the same time leave room for a microwave oven and electric kettle. But the most comfortable height for a person of average height is considered to be 60 centimeters with the same tabletop width. The recommended height of the middle or second shelf from the bottom for a user height of 155 to 160 centimeters should not exceed 175 centimeters, so that a raised hand reaches the entire depth of the compartment. With a height of 160–170 centimeters, the average shelf should be at a height of 190 centimeters, and with a height of 175–190 centimeters – no more than 2 meters.

Hang cabinets on drywall

Often apartment owners have to solve the question: how to hang the kitchen on drywall.

As you know, such material is not durable, but we need guarantees of high-quality installation - who wants a cabinet to ever collapse on the floor?

The problem is still doable.

Fastening methods:

• Butterfly dowel. Only suitable for light wall-mounted modules weighing up to 5 kg. The dowel body is aluminum, made in the form of a collet (a hollow cylinder with longitudinal cuts). When the screw is screwed into the dowel, the antennae move apart and are pressed into the surface of the hole in the sheet.
• Mounting rail. It is attached to a sheet and a wooden frame - this ensures higher reliability of fastening. Knowing in advance that the cabinets will be hung, you need to, if possible, take care of a more durable base (mortgages) under the drywall in the form of timber.
• In order to secure very bulky furniture, they also use additional fasteners: decorative cable. It is attached to the ceiling. In addition, tubes coated with a layer of chromium are used. They are screwed to the floor and serve as a frame.

Advantages and disadvantages of the plank

This simple design has a number of advantages, which is why it has gained its popularity:

• Even non-professionals - people with basic construction skills - can cope with the installation.
• When installing adjustable awnings, there is no need to measure and drill holes for each wall hanging cabinet separately. The general level is reflected.
• Using anchor bolts you can adjust the position of the cabinets. They can be placed on the same level, regardless of the flaws of the wall.
• Unlike fastenings for wall-mounted kitchen cabinets with dowels, a design with a strip is considered more “durable” and reliable. Even if a couple of screws loosen over time, the rest will hold well even when the cabinets are as full as possible.

The system has no global shortcomings. The only thing you should keep an eye on when purchasing a bar is the quality of the material. Low grade metal will bend a lot and may even break during furniture installation.

The locking mechanisms of kitchen cabinets have to endure heavy loads.

Required tools and materials

To carry out high-quality work on installing a kitchen unit, in particular, hanging cabinets, you need to have a number of tools and materials with you:

• screwdriver, drill or hammer drill;
• building level;
• hammer;
• tape measure and pencil;
• clamps are an optional tool that may be required to connect several pedestals together to give the structure a monolithic effect;
• when anchoring, you will need a wrench;
• a certain number of screws and dowels (you can purchase ties to connect cabinets to each other);
• mounting bar (tire).

Bolts, anchors or tires?

To ensure that the fastenings are reliable and the filled cabinet does not fall at the most unfortunate moment, you should take into account the material used to make the walls and furniture. Carefully consider the type of fastening.

How to fasten and what fittings are most optimal for a brick, concrete, wooden wall?

For a wooden wall of a country house, fastening with countersunk screws made of hardened alloy would be optimal. The most effective installation is with self-tapping screws with a large pitch and double-start thread.

It is better to attach shelves to a concrete and brick base using dowels, plugs, metal bolts, and plastic fasteners. You can strengthen the fittings in the holes after the drill with gypsum mortar.

Molly or butterfly screws will securely secure hanging furniture to a plasterboard wall.

For open shelves with light loads, decor, and lighting, you can use plastic butterfly dowels and drill dowels.

Hanging storage systems for dishes, food, and equipment should be mounted on classic metal fittings. For example, you can buy regular dowels made of durable alloy or molly (butterfly dowel in a metal version).

If it is impossible to reach the wall through the sheathing, you can use wooden bookmarks. The thickness of the embedded beam should be equal to the thickness of the transverse frame. If these numbers do not match, the structure may become deformed. The thickness of the timber is adjusted according to the profile sample. A metal butterfly screw is optimal for fastening hardware.

The attachment is attached directly to the bar made of bars. To enhance the load-bearing capacity, use the longest length of the plank: for example, along the width of the entire set of hanging furniture.

The two most proven types of fasteners are:

• mounting rail;
• classic bolts and screws.

Features of the suspension design - how it works

As a rule, this furniture fittings has a decorative plastic case, inside of which the adjustment mechanism is hidden. Only the heads of the adjusting screws can be seen from the outside; in addition, the case has through holes, reinforced inside with metal plates included in the suspension mechanism block. However, some models are made entirely of metal, which distinguishes them with higher strength and, accordingly, price. And regardless of any external differences, the design always includes the main part with which the cabinets are hung - a strip with hooks at the end, connected inside the body with adjusting screws.

The suspension is usually a plastic case with an adjustment mechanism inside.

The movable mechanism gives the suspension some freedom to move the clamp bar back and forth and up and down, with the main amplitude along the second vector occurring at the end with the hooks. Thus, by rotating the screws, you can extend the suspension from the body by 2 centimeters, and vertically adjust the height of the cabinet box within 22 millimeters. This is more than enough to ignore some unevenness in the wall and still get an ideal line of position to hang each cabinet evenly on the kitchen wall relative to its neighbors.

Installation method

To properly secure kitchen wall cabinets, you need to select a tool in advance and strictly follow the installation technology. It’s easier to do the work with 4 hands, but 1 person can do it

Of course, this will take a little more time and will require extreme concentration, accuracy and caution.

An important factor is the reliability and quality of fastening of each part of the headset to the wall.

Preparatory stage

Before starting the process of drilling surfaces and direct installation, you need to perform the following steps:

1. Cleaning and leveling walls. The easiest way to do this is with drywall. First, you need to secure a frame of profiles to the wall, on which the structure of the cabinets will be supported.

2. For corner kitchens, the angle between the two planes should be maintained at 90 degrees. If the curvature of the walls is insignificant, you can simply plaster them.
3. Applying basic markings. Using a perpendicular, a construction pencil and a level, you need to schematically arrange the attachment points and select the height of the structure.
4. If the situation requires it, you must first install all sockets and lighting fixtures and attach all related elements.
5. Before starting work on the installation of kitchen cabinets, the walls must be painted or wallpapered - no repair work should be carried out after installation.

Hanging height indicators

It should be convenient to use the set, so the height of the cabinets directly depends on the height of the owners and the anatomical features of their figure, and the features of the room.

Before you start assembling the set into a single “wall”, you need to decide on the height at which the furniture will be hung.

Main criteria and numbers:

1. The drawers should be tactile and located at eye level. On average, the distance from the plane of the table top to the top cabinet is 55-65 cm. In this case, a person must reach the very top shelf without the risk of dropping the desired item and without the use of auxiliary objects (chairs, benches, etc.).
2. If you do not plan to mount a table top or the lower part of the set, then the ratio of human height and fastener height should look like this:
   up to 165 cm – 175-180 cm;
3. 165-157 cm – 185 cm;
4. 175-190 cm – 200 cm.

To correctly carry out these manipulations, preliminary calculations must be made.

Required tools and materials

To carry out the work quickly and efficiently you will need:

• Drill or hammer drill with drills or augers. For brick and concrete, the impact mode should be used; for other surfaces, regular drilling will be sufficient. When working with tiles, you need to stock up on drill bits with pobedit tips.
• A screwdriver, which will be used to tighten the screws for attaching the holders to the cabinets.
• Construction pencil and tape measure.
• Level for marking the location of cabinets and adjusting awnings.
• Stable ladder.

Preparatory actions

To begin the process of installing kitchen cabinets, you need to follow these steps:

• Alignment of vertical walls, please note that for a corner kitchen the angle of the walls at 90 degrees is provided (most often this process is carried out using drywall, and thanks to this alignment occurs);
• Applying markings (this stage must be performed using a plumb line, pencil and level); The points at which the kitchen cabinets will be fastened must indicate the required height.
• Electrical installation (installation and connection of all sockets and lamps);
• Wallpapering or painting walls. These points will be the basis for the work ahead.

The next step is to prepare tools and consumables.

Methods for assembling hinged elements

Any disassembled kitchen is a set of parts made of chipboard and MDF, fittings, and fasteners. Using all this, you need to assemble the cabinets. The kitchen is mainly equipped with upper and lower cabinets.

Methods for assembling a kitchen set:

1. In pairs. The master assembles the upper and lower cabinets and then installs this pair.
2. First, assemble the upper cabinets, and then the lower ones.
3. The lower elements are assembled first, and then the upper ones. Many people find it more convenient to hang the upper elements while standing on the countertop.

If you collect everything at once and then install it, you can clutter the entire apartment, but sometimes this is not possible, especially if the apartment is one-room or heavily cluttered with furniture.

Types of modern wall kitchen cabinets

Along with the appearance, the filling of the cabinets has changed. They have acquired greater functionality and ease of use. There are cabinets equipped with a roll-out system, racks that rotate around a rigidly fixed center. This creates additional ease of access to kitchen utensils and food supplies.

All wall kitchen cabinets are attached to the back wall and have the same design, consisting of a frame, shelves and front. Chipboards are used to cover the back wall; solid wood, MDF, chipboard, and LMDF are used for the facade. The industry produces several types of wall cabinet designs:

• Open type, which are not much different from shelves and racks designed for storing various works of art, vases, photographs, and printed literature. On shelves that are not closed with doors, you can conveniently place spices in decorative boxes, vases with cookies and sweets, containers with coffee and tea.

• Closed type, which have standard shelves closed with hinged doors. The cabinets are designed for storing kitchen appliances, detergents, sponges, napkins, and for building in multi-tiered drying structures.

• Combined type, which combines all the characteristic features of closed and open wall cabinets.

There are not only simplified versions of wall-mounted kitchen cabinets, but also a variety of square and corner ones designed for drying dishes and installing exhaust hoods. They all have different shapes, sizes, color options, and filling capacity.

Cabinets with built-in drying racks for plates, cups, and glasses are usually hung above sinks with a kitchen faucet. Structures are installed above the kitchen stove where exhaust devices are placed.

Corner designs allow you to use all the free space of wall cabinets, including areas that can be difficult to reach. They can be shaped like the letter G; trapezoidal and straight wall cabinets with beveled corners are available. With wall-mounted vertical cabinets, the ceiling height visually increases and the interior takes on a complete look.

Lately, tall vertical kitchen wall cabinets that reach the ceiling surface have been gaining popularity. The design is especially relevant for small kitchens and families who have many different kitchen appliances for cooking. True, to get to the upper shelves, you will have to use small stairs.

Horizontal wall cabinets visually make the kitchen wider, expanding its boundaries. And the upper and lower niches of wall cabinets increase the space for storing necessary items and equipment in the kitchen.

How to place it correctly?

There are a few simple rules:

• accessibility of food, dishes and other kitchen utensils stored in the closet - to ensure this possibility, it is recommended to place pieces of furniture at a given distance from the countertop, and not under the ceiling;
• cabinets should not interfere with air circulation, so they are installed next to the ventilation grille, and it is prohibited to close the entrance to the duct;
• pieces of furniture in the kitchen are placed so that they do not spoil the geometry of the room.

The distance is enough to place all kitchen appliances on the table. Moreover, more often they choose an option within 45-50 cm. A distance of 65 cm and above in most cases determines the position of the hood (from the countertop to its lower edge).

You should also focus on the growth of the residents of the house. Possible options:

1. If a person's height is between 155-160 cm, the recommended height from the floor to the top shelf is 175 cm.
2. If your height is 160-170 cm, the top shelf should be located at a height of 190 cm.
3. For tall home owners (height 170-190 cm), a suitable option is when the top shelf is at a height of 200 cm.

If you do not follow these recommendations, it will be difficult to freely use dishes and kitchen utensils located in cabinets. You will have to use a stool for this purpose. In addition, you need to check at the installation stage that the hanging furniture is level. Any distortions can lead to the collapse of part of the kitchen equipment. In this case, the appearance of the interior also deteriorates. A building level should be used to check the position of the cabinets.

Almost always, wall-mounted and floor-standing pieces of furniture are placed so that they are on top of each other. Otherwise, the set will not look organic and symmetry will be lost. If necessary, cabinets are positioned higher or lower than existing standard values. However, before you finally drill holes in the wall, you should make sure that a person can easily reach the top shelf. Recommendations for calculating the installation height of cabinets:

determine the height of all residents of the apartment, take the average value - if you focus on only 1 family member (the tallest or shortest), then the rest will be uncomfortable using the furniture; take into account the dimensions of the upper cabinets; The most harmonious look is the set, which occupies most of the wall, for this reason, when choosing, you need to focus on the height of the ceilings of the room; sometimes it is important to make the apron high enough (for example, when installing specific decorative elements, the upper cabinets are raised additionally); The style direction in which the set is made is also taken into account (sometimes it is necessary to place cabinets at some distance from each other)

Selecting fasteners and preparing walls

Before you begin the process of installing cabinets, you will need to decide on the type of fittings that will be used during the work. After all, factory-made furniture does not have any special hanging hooks or other devices, because it is assumed that the installation will be done by qualified craftsmen.

Table 1. Types of fastenings

Preparing uneven walls

Wall cabinets can cover any surface defects, and sometimes they don’t even have wallpaper behind them. In some situations, preparing walls before installing cabinets is not necessary, but professional craftsmen still recommend not skipping this step - sometimes unevenness is so noticeable that it becomes impossible to perform a high-quality installation.

If the wall is wavy, you can’t hang cabinets on it

The process of further work will depend on the degree of deformation of the walls. Most often, preparation is needed for “bare” surfaces where there is no layer of plaster, but this happens very rarely, because all pieces of furniture are usually transported after finishing work is completed.

The most common method of finishing walls is called beacon plaster. It is suitable for any brick, cinder block, concrete floors. The technology is as follows:

1. First of all, the wall is thoroughly sanded to remove any build-up of mortar.
2. Next, a primer is applied to the surface in several layers, each layer being dried.
3. Next, beacons are installed on the walls.
   They are a type of metal or plastic slats. They are fixed with plaster. To begin with, two longitudinal strips are placed, and ropes are stretched between them, and the rest of the beacons are already secured along them. In the process of fixing beacons, a building level is used
4. Next, they begin to apply a solution on top of these beacons on the wall, and then level it.
5. Typically, metal beacons are removed from the walls after a few hours, when the solution has hardened a little. The remaining holes can be plastered. At the same time, plastic beacons are often left in the walls.

This is what the whole process of finishing walls with beacons looks like

If there is already an (albeit uneven) layer of plaster on the wall, then such work is not worth doing. It will be enough to level the surface using finishing plaster.

Important point! Despite the fact that the technology of wall finishing may seem simple, it has some important nuances that not every beginner can understand. Therefore, if you doubt your skills, it is better to turn to professional craftsmen.

Wall decoration is a rather painstaking job that requires care.

If you don’t want to putty the wall and lay tiles, there is another interesting way to prepare the surface for hanging cabinets. To test the method in action, you will need to screw two wooden planks to the wall in a horizontal position.

These wooden planks will serve as tires on which the fittings are attached. Thus, all hanging parts of the furniture do not come into contact with the walls, but are supported by slats.

The only negative is that you have to install a solid apron on the same slats, which is located between the wall and floor cabinets, otherwise an unsightly gap will be visible.

Using wooden planks you can hide various wall irregularities

Installation instructions

1. After completing the preparatory work, you can begin assembly. After screwing the screws, you need to align the hooks in one position and make sure that they are at the middle level. Canopies must be secured in one position. The protrusion of the fastening part (has a hook configuration) should be 2 mm in relation to the rear of the wall.
2. If you planned to cut the tire, then it’s worth taking care of the preparations.
3. Holes are made on the pre-marked wall for fixing the tire.
4. The body of the hanging furniture must be mounted on a tire. The reference point is the plane of the wall. The next fastening of wall kitchen cabinets is carried out based on the previous one.
5. The next step is the sequential fixation of installation objects using fasteners. A clamp is used for this. To prevent the surface from being damaged, a thin layer of insulating material must be laid.

6. Next, you need to drill holes in the housings. To avoid cracks or splinters, use plywood or wood overlay. After preparing the apertures, the elements are connected with ties.
7. After hanging and fixing the drawers, the doors should be screwed on. To do this, they must be laid out on the floor in such a way as to attach the loops to special niches. After this procedure, installation to the housing occurs.

Mounting strip

The mounting strip, as a fastening for kitchen cabinets, appeared later than furniture hinges. But masters and home craftsmen immediately appreciated its superiority.

• The process of installing wall cabinets is carried out by one person.
• There are not holes made in the element, but grooves that allow you to move the cabinets along the wall, which allows you to adjust them to each other in a vertical plane. The grooves are wider than the diameter of the set screws, so it is possible to align the installation of kitchen cabinet fasteners horizontally.
• The length of the bar is enough to hang several elements of a kitchen set on it. True, such fasteners also have their disadvantages:
• High price.
• The rear wall of the cabinet does not fit tightly at the top, resulting in a small gap.

The most critical moment in hanging kitchen cabinets on a mounting strip is installing and securing the strip. First, the installation height is determined; for this purpose, a horizontal installation line is marked on the wall. It is on this that the bar is attached. To do this, it is applied to the wall surface exactly along the drawn line, and several marks are made through the mounting holes. Holes are made in them for dowels, which after drilling are inserted there. After this, the metal rail (mounting rail or strip) is attached to the wall.

Without additional equipment, cabinets cannot be hung on slats. Therefore, special canopies are attached to them. All additional elements are sold separately; many furniture manufacturers include canopies with cabinets as an integral part. Such canopies are attached to the sides of cabinets, as to load-bearing elements, with self-tapping screws or bolted connections.

Today, furniture fittings manufacturers offer a huge variety of canopies, both in design and in the shape of each element. But they are all hung on a rail (tire) using hooks. The mounting strip has two shapes: with one protrusion and two. An element with a one-sided protrusion must be installed with the protruding part facing up. Hangers for kitchen cabinets will be attached to it.

There is no need to place hanging pieces of furniture exactly relative to each other and the nearest wall. The bar allows you to move the cabinets easily and quickly. After installing the tire, the first cabinet is installed, then the second is pressed against it, and so on. Then all the elements of the kitchen set are fastened together with self-tapping screws or bolted connections. Finally, the fronts are hung and the shelves are installed.