Where and how to store tulip bulbs before planting, in winter, at home

The spring flower beds have faded, it’s time to plant new ones for the next season. Before this, they decide where to store tulip bulbs until subsequent planting, and how to control the conditions of their maintenance in winter, at home, in heat chambers or in the cellar.

The main thing is not to miss the right moment after flowering has completed, and to dig up the root bulbs in time. The presence of large flowers next year depends on this. And the correct division of the root affects the number of buds.

Time to dig tulip bulbs

When the tulips have already bloomed, the trunks with the seed pods are cut off, and only the leaves remain on the site. After a while they will wither and completely wither, approximately a month after the end of flowering. That's when they dig up the roots. But you cannot wait until the leaves completely disappear, otherwise the bulbs will be overripe and begin to crumble.

No one can tell you a more precise time, because there are early, mid-early, middle and late varieties. Each flowering period is different, so whether it is possible to dig will become clear by observing each species separately. If you start the procedure before the leaves wither, the characteristic brown husk will not form on the bulb, which protects it from excessive drying out and wilting. Unripe tubers cannot be stored for a long time or produce a full-fledged flower.

To extract the roots, use a pitchfork; use a shovel to injure more and often cut large tubers. If the tulips are planted in special baskets for lilies, then removing the bulbs is easier and it is almost impossible to damage them.

How to keep tulips from mice and other rodents

Many gardeners and businessmen who professionally grow tulips are well acquainted with such enemies of delicate flower bulbs as mice and other rodents, as well as beetles. In search of food, they are capable of ruining all the beauty in the literal sense of the word on the vine, or even eating bulbs that have not yet been planted. There are several ways to protect yourself from this, and each gardener chooses his own. Let's list some of them.

A combination of tulips when planting with other plants that mice do not like. These are, for example, daffodils: they are also bulbous, but contain substances that are poisonous to rodents.
Treatment of bulbs before planting with kerosene or Vishnevsky ointment. It is harmless for tulips, but the strong pungent smell will scare away mice.
Sprinkling the soil after planting tulips with a thick layer of ground red pepper.
Spraying a flower bed where tulips grow with tincture of valerian - this plant is also unpleasant for rodents.
Using poisonous mouse baits to remove them from the area.
Planting tulips in special baskets with holes: then the flowers will receive nutrients from the soil, but pests will no longer reach them.
Using special ultrasonic rodent repellers.
An ancient remedy: a cat or hedgehog living on the property.

To remove tulip tubers from the ground or not

All varieties and hybrids of tulips are divided into three groups according to the frequency of replanting:

Annually. Parrots, lily-like, fringed, all late and Rembrandt hybrids. If these tulips are not dug up at the end of each season, they quickly lose the characteristics of the variety and degenerate.
Once every two years. Varieties Triumph, Darwin hybrids, not varietal. During one growing season, full-fledged tubers are poorly formed, so it is not recommended to disturb them more often.
Once every five years. Varietal tulips of Foster, Greig, Kaufman. These are low-growing plants, they are used in the design of paths. Over a five-year period, they do not degenerate and give birth to a small number of children.

Do I need to dig up tubers every year?

Gardeners express different opinions on this matter. Many recommendations are aimed at the fact that the removal of tubers every year is not required. Experienced gardeners advise digging up bulbs once every 3 years.

In fact, it is important to know not only how to store tulips, but also that you need to dig up the tubers every year. Such care will protect the root from parasites, pests and diseases.

Modern varieties of tulips do not always require digging. If flowers are grown in southern regions with a milder climate, then there is no need to put the “harvest” in a box for the winter. The northern regions are more severe in terms of frost - any variety requires protection.

Preparing bulbs for storage

Stages of preparing seed for storage:

Dig up tulip bulbs in dry weather. The soil should be relatively moist, but not wet. Therefore, if there are other flowers nearby in the flowerbed that continue to be watered, you should stop watering for a couple of days.
The roots are removed from the ground annually, at least once every two years, the size of the future flower depends on this. If this procedure is neglected, the bulbs go deep into the ground and gradually degenerate. Plus, when the tubers are removed, it is easier to thoroughly dig up the area and add the necessary fertilizing and fertilizers to increase soil fertility.
The bulbs are dug up and, without removing surface scales and adhering soil, they are placed in perforated paper boxes or wicker baskets for a week.
The container with seed material is placed on the veranda, under a canopy or in any ventilated room. The main rule: no direct sunlight! When it gets in, it leaves burns on the tender roots, which then dry out or lead to rot. There is no point in using damaged bulbs; they will not bloom.
After a week, the tubers are cleaned of clods of soil, old scales, rotten or dry parts. Separate mature roots from children. Wash and sort by size. Treated with a fungicide to prevent the growth of bacteria on the surface.

On a note!
If multi-colored tulips grow in a flowerbed, tie a thread matching the color of the bud onto the stem. Then, when digging up and storing the tubers, it will be easier to sort them. And when planting, you will be able to compose harmonious compositions in advance.

Excavation

Digging is necessary for tulips for the following reasons:

in the ground, bulbs are often damaged by pests - mice, insects or pathogenic fungi;
If a plant remains in one place for several years, the soil around the root system becomes very compacted. As a result, difficulties arise with the absorption of water and nutrients , the flowers become smaller and lose varietal characteristics;
varieties that produce many children soon become crowded , the replacement bulbs become smaller;
the bulb is gradually buried in the ground and spends the first phase of the dormant period at a temperature much lower than that necessary for the formation of a healthy and strong flower bud. This negatively affects the quality of flowering in the next season.

Sometimes special plastic baskets are used when planting tulips.

Some gardeners plant flower bulbs in the ground, placing them in plastic baskets. This is a useful technique that allows you to protect planting material from being buried and more thoroughly select the resulting “babies” from the soil. Unfortunately, all other reasons that make excavation necessary still remain relevant with this technology.

Simple early and late tulips, as well as varieties from the Darwin hybrids and Triumph series, can be dug up once every 2-4 years; for other varieties the procedure should be annual .

The photo shows tulips of the popular varieties Golden Parade and Apeldoorn, part of the group of Darwin hybrids

Recommended timing

Do not dig up tulips immediately after flowering: at this moment the tuber is actively absorbing nutrients and gaining strength before the dormant period. If you rush, the plant next year will be weak, with small, inexpressive flowers. In addition, the bulb will not have time to grow protective scales, and it will be more difficult for it to withstand storage.

The formation of seeds greatly weakens the plant, so if you did not cut the flower immediately when the bud appears, do it 3-4 days after the petals have fully bloomed. In general, the following rule applies: tulips that are practically not allowed to bloom form the largest and highest quality bulbs.

The plant spends a lot of effort on ripening seeds, so to obtain large, high-quality bulbs, flowers need to be cut at the bud stage or in the first days after blooming

The formation of healthy planting material is facilitated by feeding tulips with a weak solution of complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Treatment is carried out immediately after flowering.

The exact time to dig up the bulbs depends on the local climate and weather, as well as the plant variety. In the middle zone it occurs at the end of June - beginning of July. to dig up early varieties is when the leaves have completely turned yellow, but have not yet fallen to the ground - this happens approximately 6 weeks after flowering. Late varieties are dug up when yellowness covers 2/3 of the leaves. Do not wait for the leaves to dry completely: on the ground they will quickly decay, after which it will be difficult to detect the bulb.

For summer digging, it is advisable to choose a clear and dry day.

It is important to understand that with late digging you risk “losing” individual specimens, and planting material removed from the ground too early is difficult to preserve. Therefore, many gardeners use folk methods for determining “ripeness” . For example, it is known that the outer scales of onions that are ready for digging darken, acquiring a brownish tint. If the tulip still has a peduncle, then by the time the bulbs fully “ripen” it becomes flexible and plastic, as experts say - “winds freely around the finger.”

General rules

Excavation and preliminary preparation of planting material is carried out as follows:

Loosen the soil with a spatula and remove the rhizome from the ground. Be careful not to damage it. Shake off the soil, remove any remaining roots and leaves. If they cannot be broken off by hand, use pruning shears. If necessary, immediately divide the planting material by variety.
Sort through the bulbs. Throw away any that are wrinkled, soft, or have large areas of rot.
Gently wipe healthy specimens with a paper towel and place them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of table salt (1 tablespoon per liter of water) for 30 minutes to disinfect. For this purpose, you can also use some purchased drugs (for example, Fitosporin).
Cut off small rotten areas with a knife pre-treated with a disinfectant, and lubricate the cut area with brilliant green or a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
For 2-3 days, leave the planting material in a dry, shaded and cool place without drafts, for example outside under a canopy.
Sort through the bulbs again and carefully separate the children where they have not fallen off on their own.

For planting, leave healthy, strong onions, pre-sorted, disinfected and dried.

After this, the planting material can be stored.

Drying rules

Flower bulbs should be dried in well-ventilated areas. Gazebos, canopies, dry basements, verandas, attics, and balconies are suitable for this purpose. The main thing is to make sure that the temperature is maintained, not higher than 25 degrees.

Direct sunlight is harmful to rhizomes. Only diffused light, semi-darkness or shaded conditions are suitable for harmless drying.

What to do with the bulbs after drying

After final drying, the seed is prepared for sorting and storage:

Each tuber is inspected, dry, easily separated scales are removed.
The above-ground part is carefully cut with pruning shears or small garden shears, but not too deep, so as not to damage the root.
Disinfect for 30 minutes in a pale pink manganese solution and dry.

Disembarkation

Tulips are planted in the ground 6-8 weeks before the onset of frost, when the soil temperature drops to approximately +7...+10 ℃. Some gardeners advise doing this after the first frost. Before planting the bulbs, it is recommended to soak them in potassium permanganate for up to 30 minutes.

Autumn planting is sometimes carried out after the first frost.

Bulbs are planted at a depth three times their size : for large ones it is 12-14 cm, for small ones it is 6-8 cm.

Tulips can be planted in the same place every four years.

Before the onset of winter frosts, the soil can be mulched with a layer of peat (up to 3 cm thick). In spring, the mulch is removed immediately after the snow melts to avoid the bulbs getting warm.

Storage conditions

There are two storage options:

those that will be planted in the fall;
those that will be planted in the spring.

At first, the procedure for both bulbs will be the same. When storing tulip roots in summer, temperature and humidity levels are taken into account. In the first month after being removed from the soil, the tubers need temperatures no higher than 23-25 degrees. Acceptable humidity level is 60-70%.

On a note!
When planting tulips in the fall at different times, you can achieve interesting results. Thus, by placing bulbs in the ground at intervals of one and then two weeks, the period of bright flowering of plants of the same variety is extended. The buds bloom at the same interval that was maintained between autumn plantings.

How to store tulip bulbs before planting:

on the floor in cardboard boxes, wooden baskets, on wooden shelves;
hanging from the ceiling - in mesh string bags, in nylon tights.

With any of the methods, the bulbs are laid out in one, maximum two layers, ensuring air access and good ventilation.

In the summer storage of tulip bulbs, future organs of the plant are laid: stem, leaves, peduncle. If the temperature is above 25 degrees, the buds will not form. At low humidity the roots will dry out, at high humidity they will rot.

Tulip tubers larger than 3 cm in size, intended for planting in spring, are placed for long-term storage. Some gardeners recommend throwing away children smaller than 1 cm, since the period of their first flowering will last for one or two years. But if it’s a pity to throw them away, then they set aside an area where they don’t plan to dig the soil for two years. There they will produce a modest harvest next season or the year after.

Factors contributing to the preservation of tulips

We correctly figured out how to store tulips at home after cutting. There are a number of factors that directly determine how long flowers will retain their freshness; special attention should be paid to this. There are several important points that will directly determine the lifespan of flowers cut from a flower bed.

Time to cut

The shelf life of tulips largely depends on what time of day the cutting was made. Experienced flower growers recommend carrying out the procedure early in the morning, before daily watering, while the buds have not yet opened. By the middle of the day the sun will cause the flowers to open; if cut, they will not be able to stand for long.

Cloudy weather contributes to a longer period for cutting; without sunshine, the procedure can be carried out at any convenient time.

How to prevent rotting

The most dangerous enemy of any plant is rot; bacteria of this type quickly destroy the plant. It is possible to protect cut tulips from such a misfortune using several methods. How to keep tulips in a vase longer? Apply the recommendations:

It is necessary to regularly change the water in the container; this must be done once a day. At the same time, the walls and bottom are thoroughly washed.
The lower leaves must be removed; constant exposure to water will accelerate the putrefactive processes in the plant tissues.
A few drops of potassium permanganate solution or a piece of activated carbon will help prevent rotting.
A tablespoon of food vinegar for every liter of water used will not allow harmful bacteria to develop.
An aspirin tablet has the same effect as vinegar. The solution is made at the rate of one tablet per liter of water.

Such simple tricks will help you avoid troubles in the form of rot on the stems.

What tulips don't like

In addition to the points described above, there are some nuances due to which cut flowers can quickly fade. It is worth remembering that tulips are not liked:

Direct sunlight is harmful to them. When choosing a place for a vase, preference is given to well-lit, but without direct sunlight. Its rays often leave burns on the stems, leaves and petals of the trunk, shortening the duration of flowering.
When forming a bouquet or simply placing containers with flowers, you must respect the proximity. Tulips are best preserved in splendid isolation; additions to them in the form of daffodils, lilies of the valley, lilacs, and roses will significantly shorten the life of the entire bouquet.

Interesting! Recently, compositions of flowers with rhizomes have come into fashion. How to store tulip bulbs before this? It is best to immerse them in a vase with water; this is how the composition will be preserved later.

What kind of place should be suitable for storing bulbs?

During long-term storage of tulip bulbs, the following indicators are monitored:

Stable temperature conditions in winter. Unlike summer storage, where flower organs are laid, this is a dormant period when the plant needs +10 or +15 degrees.
Constant humidity in the range of 60-70%.
Air flow and good ventilation.
Lack of access for rodents, for whom bulbs are a favorite treat.

On a note!
If you cannot avoid the visits of mice and rats in the place where the tulip bulbs will be stored, then tie the nets to the ceiling. Rodents will not be able to get there, but the necessary conditions will be met.

Storage containers

For winter storage, use wicker baskets, plastic or wooden boxes, and wooden shelves.

To absorb excess moisture, wood shavings are poured into containers with tulip tubers. For the same purpose, wrap each spine with newspaper or wrapping paper. This method will eliminate contact with neighboring bulbs and prevent the rapid proliferation of diseases and fungi.

It is not recommended to use glass, polyethylene and plastic containers for storing planting material. The environment created in such a container is detrimental to the future plant.

Existing methods for storing bulbs

You should find out how to store tulip bulbs in winter at home and in basements in advance. To create the right microclimate and allocate suitable space.

Apartment

You can store the roots in your apartment until spring, subject to a number of conditions:

The container with tubers should be deprived of light. In nature, in winter they are in the ground, breaking the rules is harmful to the plant.
Room temperature up to +15 degrees. Finding such a place in an apartment is problematic. Therefore, common corridors, specially equipped storage rooms or an insulated balcony are better suited.
Humidity is 60-70%; if there is no hygrometer, this can be determined by the appearance of the bulb. The surface is smooth, shiny, sufficient density, not wrinkled, not flaccid - this means that everything is in order.

Cellar

When storing tulip roots in the cellar, pay close attention to the level of humidity. Solid earthen cellars with insufficient ventilation are not suitable. The room should not be damp.

Before putting it into the cellar, check for pest passages in the walls. If rodents are frequent guests, then drive several hooks into the ceiling and store the planting material in a suspended state.

Fridge

It is possible to store tulip bulbs in the refrigerator if there are few of them and there are no other options. But this is not the best way to preserve the plant's vegetation.

The roots are placed in the “warmest” place of the refrigerator, intended for storing vegetables and herbs. To prevent mold, wrap each onion in napkins or a paper towel. As the paper gets wet, it is replaced with dry paper.

Thermal chamber

The ideal place to store tulip planting material is thermal chambers. But not every amateur summer resident can afford their cost. Those who grow flowers for sale or are engaged in breeding will sooner or later have to fork out for such a device.

In such chambers, the temperature regime is automatically set and the humidity level is set. And for a long time, and in this case almost six months, the conditions remain unchanged.

On a note!
Thermal chambers are sometimes called homemade boxes where the same storage conditions are constantly maintained. Temperature and humidity sensors are built into or placed in them. Keep them on an insulated balcony or in a cellar.

Is it possible to save tulip bulbs until spring?

Ideally, storing tulip bulbs after flowering is recommended only until autumn. Planting material has a short shelf life, reacts sensitively to any environmental changes in winter and often deteriorates.

But if the optimal time for autumn transfer of the crop into the ground has already been missed, you can try to save the bulbs for several months until spring. To do this, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to both the preparation of the material and the choice of location.

Is it possible to store tulip bulbs at home in the refrigerator in winter?

The best way to preserve tulip bulbs in a quality manner is in a basement or cellar. Placing the culture in the refrigerator is not prohibited, but creating optimal conditions in this case will be difficult.

The temperature inside the unit is usually kept at 4 degrees. Only the most frost-resistant varieties can withstand cold for a long time. Most varieties require more comfortable conditions.

Early forcing and wet germination as storage methods

When it is not possible to create suitable conditions, for example, the basement is damp, and it is impossible to correct this in a short time, then early forcing or wet germination is suitable. These methods

Early forcing

Tulip tubers are placed in flower pots or special trays with prepared soil; garden soil is also suitable. The containers are left on the veranda or balcony until the first frost. When temperatures drop below zero, the trays are moved to the cellar or subfloor, where they will remain until spring. Plastic bags are placed on top of the trays. Once every two weeks the soil is shed with water. Periodically remove the polyethylene for ventilation.

In the spring, when the first shoots appear, the tulips are stored in the air, and after a while they are planted in open ground along with a lump of earth. With this method, grown plants bloom earlier.

Wet germination

Plastic boxes or containers are suitable for wet germination. Sawdust and peat are poured into the bottom, moistened, and the tubers are placed bottom down. Sprinkle the same sawdust or other light substrate on top. Containers are stored in the basement.

Tulips germinated in this way bloom simultaneously with those planted in the fall.

Regular checking of seed

Primary processing before storage is often not enough. All bulbs must be periodically turned over and inspected for the appearance of new spots and rottenness. Damaged roots are immediately removed, and those adjacent to them are wiped with a clean cloth and placed in a separate box to avoid further spread of bacteria.

Possible storage problems and their solutions

If the necessary storage conditions are violated, the tulip tubers will show this.

If the bulbs become wrinkled and soft, the plants are signaling an insufficient level of humidity. Place a wide container of water close to the container where the roots are stored. As it evaporates, add liquid.

Another “resuscitation” option is to purchase a household air humidifier with a humidity level sensor. When the set value is reached, the device turns off. The main thing is not to forget to fill the container with water.

On a note!
If the tulip bulbs are wrinkled, do not rush to throw them away immediately. Try raising the humidity in the room where the planting material is stored. If the efforts are effective, the roots will regain their former elasticity.

When the room is too humid, rot and sores begin to develop on the surface of the tubers. Drops of water appear on the skin - a signal that the room urgently needs to be dried. Household electric heaters will help.

With diseased bulbs proceed as follows:

Those that are completely or half rotten are destroyed.
If the root is damaged up to 1/3, the rotten part is cut off. The cut site is treated with green diamond. These seeds are subsequently stored separately from healthy bulbs.
Suspicious: soft or slippery roots are wiped with a clean, dry cloth and also placed in another container.

Treatment after storage

Before planting, dry brown scales are removed from the surface. Bulbous plants are re-treated with a fungicide and a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The roots are kept in potassium permanganate for about half an hour. Even if the storage conditions were good, this procedure will protect the tubers from exposure to microorganisms living in the soil. And friendly, lush flowering in the flowerbed will be a reward for the efforts invested.

It is advisable to carry out repeated treatment both during autumn planting in the ground and during spring.

If you follow all the rules for digging, storing tulip bulbs, proper processing and planting, abundant flowering in the spring will be ensured. Flowerbeds of country houses and garden plots will delight you with friendly and large buds.

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Diseases, quality determination

The quality of flowers is determined by their appearance:

The leaves are a juicy, bright green color.
The stem is quite thick, up to 1 cm in diameter.
The tip of the stem closer to the cut is white.
Stem length is 40-60 cm (if less, then the tulip variety is low).
The bud is closed.
The bulbs are without flaws, hard, brown husk.

If the leaves have gray or yellow spots, then the plant is affected by a fungus (gray rot). This is caused by keeping the flower in the cold coupled with dampness. Damaged leaves must be eliminated, because... if the stem is damaged, the tulip will die.

Watery bulbs with a pink spot is a soft rot that will sooner or later lead to the flower wilting. The reason is planting in warm soil (above +12 °C). If a lesion is detected, it is necessary to disinfect the soil with a fungicide or renew it, and also be sure to drain it.

In addition to these diseases, there are: fusarium, typhullosis, root rot, penicillosis, trichoderma, August disease - the fight against each of them comes down to maintaining optimal growing conditions, excluding contaminated elements, treating and disinfecting tools with formaldehyde, and beds and bulbs with potassium permanganate and fungicide .