What can be put in a compost pit - nitrogen and carbon-containing components

The idea of ​​using food and garden waste at a summer cottage led to the creation of a natural fertilizer. The result of natural waste processing is called compost. More precisely, this is a mixture suitable for fertilizing the soil. Even structure-specific soils, for example with clay or sand in their composition, will become more loose in the first case and with better moisture support in the second.

This waste-free production is convenient for both people and nature. But even such an “elementary” matter must be taken seriously, so as not to cause harm to the earth and plants instead of benefit. So how to make compost correctly?

Compost components

The raw materials for producing compost on your own site are all types of organic matter. These are dry fallen leaves, vegetable and fruit peelings, pruned tree branches, mown green grass or hay, dry straw, paper or cardboard, cattle manure or bird droppings.

All components are divided into nitrogen and carbon containing. It is necessary to distinguish between them in order to correctly lay out the components and correctly calculate the amount of some and other ingredients.

If, for example, you try to make fertilizer from nitrogen substances alone, the compost heap will begin to rot and emit a stench. The result will be silage. In the worst case scenario, the entire pile will have to be disposed of.

The increased content of carbon-containing substances leads to the fact that under natural conditions, without the use of accelerators, fertilizer will have to wait 2 years. This is not profitable, since plants and soil require nutrition every year.

The correct ratio of substances is when there are 3 parts of carbon-containing components per 1 nitrogen part.

Nitrogen raw materials:

• manure;

• fresh grass;

• raw cleaning;

• vegetable tops.

Carbon raw materials:

• straw;

• hay;

• paper;

• dry leaves;

• pine litter - be careful with the amount, since such an additive increases acidity;

• woody branches.

To make the composting process faster, large particles must be crushed before storing.

And in order to get fertilizer in 1.5 - 2 months, you need to use biodestructors and properly care for the composter.

Briefly about the main thing

A compost heap at the dacha is necessary for preparing your own organic fertilizer. It requires proper construction and selection of suitable materials. Quick compost is used when planting new plants or to accelerate the growth of other representatives of the plant world. It is important to choose the right location before laying the pile.

To know how to make compost at your dacha, you need to familiarize yourself with all the rules for laying a compost heap. The rate of decomposition of organic substances according to all the rules depends on the constituent components and the laying of layers. If problems are detected, it is necessary to adjust the irrigation system or add other elements to the compost composition. If everything is done correctly, then in just a few months you can get high-quality country compost.

Methods for preparing fertilizer

There are two different ways to make compost at home. In a sealed composter without oxygen and in an open compost heap. In the first case, anaerobic bacteria will do all the work.

These are microorganisms that do not like sunlight, high temperatures and die when exposed to air. If you use them to decompose components, the compost heap must be hermetically sealed and not opened until the fertilizer has matured.

The aerobic method does not require a sealed container, but is more labor-intensive, since the process requires shoveling the mixture several times to ventilate it. With such care, bacteria multiply faster and process plant residues more intensively. It is necessary to monitor the humidity level so that the compost pile does not dry out.

Vermicompost

This method of preparing fertilizer is the fastest, since in addition to bacteria, plant residues are processed by red Californian worms.

This species is the most efficient, as it reproduces 500 times faster than ordinary worms, but in order to produce huge numbers of cocoons, they need to feed a lot. If environmental conditions correspond to the needs of a given species, then ready-made fertilizer can be made not only for yourself, but also for sale.

Conditions of detention:

• Warm room with a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees.

• Equipped pile with wet raw materials and air access.

• Constant supply of plant residues for nutrition.

Vermicompost is the most nutritious organic fertilizer, which requires three times less than other fertilizers. It is completely absorbed in a short time, so it does not have time to be washed out by rain.

Where to set up a composter

The compost heap box must be hidden from sunlight, which negatively affects the growth of bacteria. This could be a shade tree or a canopy with a roof. It is advisable that the box has a lid to prevent precipitation from getting inside.

The bottom of the composter is concreted or left open. For a stationary pile, it is better to make a solid floor, since during the maturation process, nutrient fluid flows out, which must be preserved, since it is rich in nitrogen. As an option, they are lined with straw, peat or soil.

You can make a box yourself from boards, mesh or slate, or you can buy a ready-made container. In the first case, it is easier to care for the compost, but only the aerobic composting method is available. Raw materials for both aerobic and anaerobic rotting are placed in plastic containers. But it is more difficult to care for because the container has a small hatch.

Requirements for placement

A place on the site is chosen, as a rule, out of sight and one that you don’t mind - where nothing grows due to dense shade or infertility of the soil, somewhere behind outbuildings, if there are any, in the backyard.

There are other important points.

• You need to understand that rotting raw materials will not emit the most pleasant smell, so you should think about moving away from the resting place and about the neighbors. It would be good to know the compass rose so as not to place the pile on the leeward side.
• Consideration should be given to ensuring free access to the pit, since raw materials will be added and taken constantly throughout the season.
• It is advisable to choose a site on a flat surface, and not in a hole, perhaps with a slight slope, to prevent stagnation of water, which interferes with the flow of oxygen, and therefore extends the process over time.
• The compost heap, although called a pit, must be higher than the ground level. In this case, it will warm up better, it will be more convenient to loosen, water and generally maintain it. The optimal parameters are 50 cm deep, 1 m of fence above the ground. Higher walls will make it difficult to loosen and use compost.
• Avoid proximity to a source of drinking water (must be more than 25 m).
• The place should be in the shade or partial shade - sunlight slows down and dries out the raw materials.
• Do not place the structure under trees, they may get sick and die. Neighborhood with conifers and other evergreen crops is especially not recommended. The best neighbors will be alder and birch.

Do not cover the bottom of the pit with film, slate or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through! It must penetrate from the soil unhindered (depthing will facilitate this), otherwise everything will dry out. The bottom should remain earthen.

How to properly start a compost heap

First, prepare the components and grind them to increase the area of ​​penetration of bacteria. It is recommended to air dry freshly cut green grass to reduce the amount of nitrogen. This will prevent rotting and speed up ripening.

First of all, a layer of soil about 30 cm is laid on the bottom. Next, the layers are alternated so that for 3 parts of carbon-containing components there is one layer of nitrogen. It is recommended to water each layer with a solution of biological fertilizer - purchased in a store or prepared with your own hands - for this, yeast and fermented milk products are used.

For aerobic composting, the ingredients are placed loosely, without compaction, so that there is air between them and bacteria can multiply.

Video: How to properly make compost from weeds

After laying the components, after 2 - 3 days it is necessary to shovel the pile. The temperature at this moment is already beginning to rise due to the release of gases. Then you need to turn the mixture every two weeks. If necessary, pour water, but do not fill it, as this will lead to the death of microorganisms. The mixture should be slightly damp.

Design options

There are 4 options for building a compost pit:

1. Depression in the ground. You can dig a hole yourself and fill the bottom with hay. After each replenishment, you will need to fill the contents with fresh grass. However, there is a drawback - the lack of heating, which is necessary to increase the rate of decay.
2. Wooden structure. To make a wooden box for compost, the dimensions indicated earlier are suitable. The supports need to be dug 20 cm into the ground; when creating it, it is worth leaving ventilation holes. Using wooden leaves, you can divide the box in two, one for old and one for new compost. You can paint the walls.
3. Concrete pit. At a depth of about 70 cm, a trench measuring 2 by 2.5 meters is dug. You need to set up the formwork, the wall thickness is about 10 cm. You need to pour the concrete, and remove the formwork when it hardens. You can close such a pit using an iron shield or film.
4. Plastic box. You can purchase a ready-made compost bin from a garden supply store, but these bins are often flimsy. However, the price is captivating; they are usually cheaper than other options.

What you can and cannot add to compost

The question that most interests summer residents is what can be put in compost. You can add all the organic matter, but make sure that it is not affected by fungus, otherwise the disease will spread throughout the area along with the fertilizer.

Which plant tops should not be put into compost:

• cabbage is put into compost if it is not damaged by clubroot - growths on the roots;

• tomatoes and potatoes are susceptible to late blight disease, which causes darkening of the leaves; if the tops are healthy, then they can be used as raw materials;

• weeds cannot be put into compost if they are collected with seeds - they are first soaked in water so that the shell becomes soft, then bacteria can destroy it;

• The roots of the plant are first crushed so that the plant cannot survive and germinate in the composter.

Which tops cannot be put into compost are determined by their appearance. The greens should be clean, and the root area should be free of darkened areas.

What should not be put in the compost heap:

• glass - it is not processed by bacteria;

• rubber – can cause the death of microorganisms;

• artificial fabric scraps - they are also not digestible;

• feces of domestic cats and dogs, as there is a risk of contracting toxoplasmosis;

• meat waste and fat - this attracts flies and other pests;

• painted boards or sawdust with chemicals;

• glossy paper - it is treated with chemicals based on heavy metals.

Construction waste such as drywall, laminate and plastic are not suitable for recycling into fertilizer.

Questions that cause controversy among gardeners:

• Is it possible to put potato peelings in compost? You don’t even have to grind it if you use EO preparations. The exception is tubers affected by fungus.

• Can strawberry leaves be put into compost? Berry plants are also susceptible to diseases, but if everything is in order with the bushes, then the cuttings are placed in a heap.

There is often debate about whether to bring in meat and fish waste. It is better not to do this, as rotting meat attracts insects that lay eggs. Fish waste often contains helminth larvae. This compost can contaminate the entire soil on the site.

Tips for proper use

To use the pit without problems, you need to know some details that will improve the quality of the fertilizer. Quite often it is necessary to stir the contents of the pit to allow oxygen to penetrate and promote decay.

It is worth moistening the waste in the pit, the main thing is not too much water. A small amount of moisture will promote rapid decomposition. You can cover the hole with black film to create a “greenhouse effect” inside the box. But you need to make holes to allow air to circulate.

If everything is done correctly, steam and increased temperature will appear in the box - this is the result of the rotting process. You also need to pay attention to the bottom layer of compost in the autumn. The top layer is not ready yet, but take out the bottom layer and lay it separately.

Making a compost bin is a difficult process. However, for garden owners, this is an indispensable opportunity to make their own fertilizer from natural ingredients.

Care of aerobic and anaerobic composting soil

With anaerobic composting, human intervention is not required. The main thing is that the temperature outside corresponds to the mode of functioning of the bacteria. In winter, the container is moved to a warm room.

If ripening occurs with access to air, then the more air there is, the faster the compost will be ready. To do this, loosen the components with a pitchfork every 2–3 weeks In hot weather, the pile is watered with clean water without chlorine. To prevent rain from getting inside the compost bin, it is covered with film or a piece of plastic.

Making a compost pit at your dacha with your own hands

The process of creating a compost pit depends on the chosen design option. It is important to understand that a self-made compost box will last longer than a purchased one, because wood or concrete are stronger materials than plastic.

The easiest to implement is the first option. It is worth somehow dividing the hole in the ground into two parts so that there is space for old and new compost. However, results may not appear for a long time, since being in the ground, the coolness of the waste reduces the ability of the waste to rot.

You can use some old bins to sort your compost.